London

Natsuko Toyofuku

Jewellery maker | Milan, Italy

Meticulous finishes on minimalist jewellery

Natsuko works with wax in her jewellery and sculptures
Her workshop features gallery-style displays in Milan
She collaborates with foundry workers and goldsmiths

Natsuko Toyofuku makes organic, abstract jewellery in bronze and silver, influenced by Japanese minimalism and Scandinavian design. As a child in the 1960s, she moved from Japan to Italy, and was raised in Milan's vibrant artistic scene. Natsuko, who also goes by Natsu, began crafting jewellery in the 1980s, drawing inspiration from art and nature. "I create my pieces and display them gallery-style in my atelier in Corso Como in Milan, where my sculptor father once worked," she says. Each piece begins with a wax model that Natsuko hand sculpts, before being cast and finished in collaboration with local workshops.

Interview

How would you describe your work?: My work is highly manual. It resembles the way a sculptor shapes marble, except I sculpt in wax. Once the wax model is complete, I entrust the subsequent stages of casting and goldwork to specialised foundry workers and goldsmiths.
Is jewellery making in danger?: My craft is not in danger, but the workshops I collaborate with are. It is becoming increasingly difficult to find skilled goldsmiths and foundry workers. Many processes are no longer carried out in Italy, which has led to a decline in overall quality.
How do you work with tradition and innovation?: When I started my practice, jewellery was still very classical. I experimented with new forms and materials, such as bronze, which hardly anyone used at the time. My style today has not changed. It remains faithful to those innovative beginnings.
Did you have any mentors?: I studied jewellery with sculptor and goldsmith Davide De Paoli in the 1980s. I was fascinated by how he combined jewellery and sculptural art. I started this path as a beginner, learning from him while also experimenting with wax work.

Natsuko Toyofuku is an expert artisan: she began her career in 1985