Martina Spetlova

Textile creator

©Tom Bottomley

A transparent practice of circular design

Martina shares her skills in designing and weaving with artisans around the world
Through the use of waste materials, she supports circularity for a better environment
She brings to light the process behind each item by inserting a digital chip into her pieces

Martina Spetlova is a designer and weaver who makes woven coats, jackets and art pieces from discarded leather and textile waste. Before studying print at Central Saint Martins in London, she studied biochemistry. "My practice is defined by collaborations and sharing skills with artisans across the globe," Martina says. Her works are embedded with custom-made digital passports, which provide full transparency on the story of her pieces, from the source of her materials to her making process. Working across fashion and interiors, Martina is committed to circular design, keeping materials in use and giving new value to waste.

Interview

How did your journey with textiles start?: Before I moved to London and got my degrees in print and textile design, I studied biochemistry. Even though I was always into textures, textiles and ecological practices, I launched a fashion brand that was more oriented towards making jackets and clothes after graduation. In 2018, I decided to solely focus on leatherwork, which truly marked the beginning of my journey into promoting contemporary craftsmanship.
What do collaborations with other artisans look like?: I collaborated with NGOs in Islamabad to support woman artisans, and worked with Syrian refugees in Istanbul. I am interested in introducing my approach to traditional crafts, without overriding them. For example, I explored natural dyes and modernised colour combinations with a group of palm weavers, and incorporated leather into their traditional weaving techniques, without changing the basis of their craft.
Do you work with digital tools in your craft?: I wanted to create a system that connects each product with its full story – the people behind it, the materials, the process. I collaborated with a blockchain technology platform to develop a digital product passport, which will eventually be required in the EU. Each of my pieces is embedded with a chip that stores material data and supply chain information. I want to bring to light the invisible process behind each object.
How are you rethinking your materials and medium?: I am working on a collection called Weight of Waste that explores the weight of discarded objects. I use leather offcuts, lanyards from festivals and industry events, and second-hand furniture. I am also starting to explore art pieces and incorporating embroidery into my work. While textile is the main medium, I do like to play with different contexts.

Martina Spetlova is a master artisan: she began her career in 2012 and she started teaching in 2014