Iben Høj

Textile sculptor

©Søren Lamberth - Maries Ideer

Knitting has never been so cool

Iben combines English tradition with Danish innovation
Her inspiration comes from nature, plants and insects
She can work with several knitting machines simultaneously

For the past two decades Iben Høj has been part of the Nordic fashion scene. Educated as a knitwear designer at the University of Brighton, UK, she’s now based on Funen island in Denmark, where she opened her own studio in 2004. Her career took off quickly. “I did a small collection of garments and immediately sold it to some cool, small boutiques in Copenhagen. Then I started showing the collection at international fashion fairs, got a UK agent and sold worldwide for a decade.” Iben's work is inspired by the contrast between traditional and modern, delicate and grand, handmade and machine-made; through this interplay her artworks unite fashion, art and design.

Interview

©Søren Lamberth

©Julie Voge Hansen

What made you choose this craft?: I didn’t specialise in knit until the end of my first year at university. I had never thought that textiles would be my craft, I do not even hand knit! I’m very fascinated by the fact that with fabric you can create something three-dimensional, not just a flat piece of cloth.
Can you explain your creative process?: I am a hands-on machine knitter, working with transparency and open areas and large format spatial pieces. First, I choose materials and colours, then I work on stitch concepts. The stitches are often constructed sideways, diagonally or upside down.
Have you developed your own technique?: Yes. I have elaborated a way in which I can work on several knitting machines simultaneously when I make my larger scale pieces. I always try to challenge the limitations of the techniques and the machinery.
What is the one piece you are particularly proud of?: It’s called Aurora Borealis. Seeing it for the first time, during Salone del Mobile in Milan, suspended and floating in the air, took my breath away. I had not seen the piece in full, as it was huge and simply just a pile of threads and yarn on my studio floor.

Iben Høj is a master artisan: she began her career in 1997 and she started teaching in 2002