Esther Brinkmann

Jewellery maker

©Ariel Huber

A trailblazer in Swiss contemporary jewellery

Esther is a jewellery maker and designer
Rings are her signature pieces
She is a pioneer of teaching jewellery design in Switzerland

The first thing Esther Brinkmann mentions when talking about her work is that she wants to design and make things that are here to stay for a long time. She has no interest in making fashion accessories that are worn twice and thrown away. Her work is modern but timeless at the same time, crossing periods while keeping her singular touch and style. It is this timelessness that appeals to her, in quality and in design. Not all of the material that she uses to create are precious, but the way Esther transforms and moulds them leads to a finished piece that is indeed precious. It can be anything, from iron to plastic or textile materials. Esther makes precious jewellery pieces that have value because of the way the material is transformed and designed. Esther has played a huge role in the transmission and development of jewellery design in Swiss universities.

Interview

©Ariel Huber

©Ariel Huber

How are you linked to teaching in your career?: I founded the jewellery department at the Geneva University of Art and Design (HEAD) in 1987 and was its head until 2005. Teaching means sharing my passion and experience, supporting students in finding their own language and helping them find the endurance to produce their work.
What inspires your work?: My inspiration comes from my life. I lived in China and in India, so there was plenty to be inspired by in those cultures. A few themes come up again and again in my work. Materials are important to me along with the ways to transform and combine them.
Why are you particularly attached to rings?: Rings are my favourite object, particularly because of the sensory aspect. You can play with a ring and feel its presence. It influences our gestures and calls for a more intimate relationship with the body.
What is work well made to you?: When there is a match between an idea, the chosen materials and its making, as if it were obvious. Also, if I still appreciate the work after years, then I know it was well made.

Esther Brinkmann is a master artisan: she began her career in 1980 and she started teaching in 1984