Perfect stitch
- Ana Luisa chose Madeira embroidery over wicker
- As is customary, she learnt from the women in her family
- Her craft requires perfect execution to be harmonious
Ana Luisa Santos belongs to a community of talented women embroiderers spread over the island of Madeira who are keeping their craft alive. “I was given the choice when I was 12 to learn wicker or embroidery. As my mother and grandmother were embroiderers I followed their steps.” When she returned to Madeira after spending 10 years abroad, she enrolled in an embroidery course at the IVBAM Madeira Wine, Embroidery and Handicraft Institute where she now teaches. The craft requires various steps from the design to the final execution but it is the quiet and intricate manual perfection such as Ana’s that makes Madeira embroidery so refined. There are less embroiderers today but IVBAM is actively working to safeguard their island’s historical and cultural treasure.
Interview
- Can you explain the role of women in the embroidery in Madeira?
- Historically, most women learnt embroidery at home. It was a way of financially contributing to the family from home, especially in more rural areas where conditions were not so good, while still looking after the children and securing daily house chores.
- Are you given freedom in your work as an embroiderer?
- If I make a piece for my family, I have more liberty but our role as embroiderers is to follow the design that is perforated and drawn on the textile and it’s the perfection of our different stitches and cutworks that gives beauty and value to the pieces.
- How did your experience at the Homo Faber 2018 event change your life?
- Discovering Venice! It was an exciting and magical moment shared with my fellow embroiderer and friend Ana. I felt so proud to demonstrate our Madeira embroidery on site each day and see our work appreciated alongside other luxury handmade objects.
- What advice would you give to a young person wanting to be an embroiderer?
- Women today have more professional options. For those wanting to pursue the craft, they must be passionate. It is still hard to make a living only from embroidery but IVBAM institute is working to promote our heritage also by training younger generations.
Ana Luisa Santos is a master artisan: she began her career in 2008 and she started teaching in 2014
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Ana Luisa Santos
