António Adauta

Embroiderer

©Eduardo Ferrão

©Antonio Adauta

Mythical stitches

António is a self-taught Arraiolos embroiderer
He interprets ancient mosaics using the Arraiolos stitch
His embroidered works tell stories of Roman mythology

António Adauta taught himself Arraiolos (long-legged cross stitching) embroidery, choosing this creative path over a career in electrical engineering. The traditional technique, which dates back to the 15th century and takes its name from the southern Portuguese town of Arraiolos, uses wool thread on burlap. Living in the north of the country, António felt free to break away from traditional Arraiolos patterns to create embroidery pieces that tell mythological stories inspired by the Roman mosaics of Conímbriga. The master patterns are duly protected and registered by the Portuguese Department of General Inspection of Cultural Activities. True Arraiolos embroidery has a label, on which the work’s name and the author are identified, followed by an axe seal symbolising the authenticity of the craft. In 2022, António was Gold Winner in the Art and Luxury Design Built category at The Architecture & Design Collection Awards, and in 2023 his project Conimbriga Mosaics Framed Embroidery was Bronze Winner at the A' Design Awards 2022-23.

Interview

©Antonio Adauta

©Eduardo Ferrão

When did you decide to dedicate yourself to Arraiolos embroidery?: When I was studying in Coimbra, 32 years ago, I saw a postcard with a mosaic from the Roman ruins of Conímbriga. I visited the site and was mesmerised by the beauty of the mosaics that are 1800 years old. I then decided to use Arraiolos as my way of interpreting them.
How do you transform a mosaic design into embroidery?: Firstly, I select the mosaics and make a chromatic study. Secondly, I make a master pattern which is then embroidered by hand using the Arraiolos stitch. On average my framed Arraiolos pieces takes one and half months to craft.
What is different about your Arraiolos work?: I am the only embroiderer using the Arraiolos stitch to make framed mosaic patterns that tell mythological stories. I predominantly use black, orange, brick and beige coloured cotton strings on aida-fabric and I frame my creations like artworks to be exhibited on a wall.
Are you a guardian of tradition?: I respect tradition and use the same Arraiolos stitch in existence since the 15th century. I have innovated it by adapting the Roman mosaics of Conímbriga with geometric, floral and mythological patterns and introducing new smaller materials such as cotton string and aida-fabric. For me, that’s also the role of a guardian.

António Adauta is an expert artisan: he began his career in 1990