Ana Lemos

Embroiderer

Precious embroiderer hands

Ana is part of a community of embroiderers keeping their island’s tradition alive
She learnt her craft from her mother and grandmother
Her floral garden on Madeira becomes her studio on warm days

Ana was born in Madeira and, like many local women, learnt the island’s traditional embroidery from her family. Her craft constitutes part of Madeira’s historical and cultural identity, and has done since the 19th century when exports increased as European nobility appreciated the finesse and beauty of their pieces. Their exports expanded again in the 20th century when countries further afield, such as the US, discovered their work. “Madeira embroidery requires many preparatory steps from the design to perforating and stamping the drawing on the fabric with blue washable paint but it is our hands that bring soul to the pieces.” After the intricate embroidery stage, the piece is returned to the factory to be cut, washed, ironed and certified by IVBAM Madeira Wine, Embroidery and Handicraft Institute as a gauge of authenticity and quality.

Interview

What skills do you need to become a Madeira embroiderer?: Most of us learnt the embroidery techniques from our mothers and grandmothers – I learnt from them aged 14 – but this technical knowledge is not enough. There needs to be an innate gift and sensibility because our work is elaborate and the merit lies in the perfection of the execution.
Why do you think your island’s embroidery is recognised worldwide?: It is a manual activity, mostly on white linen and cotton, using a needle and thread with numerous stitches, some simple, others complex, in high and low relief. Mixing raised stitches with intricate cutwork and typical Madeira floral motifs makes it unique.
What are some of the difficulties you face as an embroiderer?: We need good eyes and must physically limit movement while embroidering which can take hours. That is why we are traditionally paid for the number of stitches and why it suits us to work from home. This means we are free to combine other chores and even work outside on a sunny day.
Can you share an inspirational experience linked to your craft?: It was enriching to represent and promote Madeira embroidery with my fellow artisan friend at the Homo Faber Event in Venice in 2018. It was our first experience abroad and so wonderful to witness the appreciation for our beautiful craft from the visitors.

Ana Lemos is a master artisan: she began her career in 1982 and she started teaching in 2008