A golden thread connecting centuries
- Yarina revives the ancient Russian craft of gold and pearl embroidery
- It may take months to complete one piece of gold embroidery
- She has taught many others this work
Yarina Nikolayeva always wanted to be a teacher – and she has become one. But instead of teaching foreign languages, this Moscow State Pedagogical Institute graduate is now teaching a rare historic craft – gold and pearl embroidery, a tradition that once flourished in Russia but is now almost forgotten. Using the ancient couching stitch, Yarina creates stunning replicas of historic masterpieces, which can now be found in private collections across the globe. She has also found a beautiful way to put some of her embroideries to use. Since 2007, Yarina has led the female vocal ensemble Tausen, which performs Russian folk songs a capella. The singers go on stage in dresses and headwear made by Yarina, thus reviving both vocal and handicraft traditions at the same time.
INTERVIEW
In 1985, I went to a folk costume exhibition at the History Museum in Moscow, and the subject immediately sparked a huge interest. I started reading, participating in folk ensembles, and at some point, I saw an advertisement for a gold embroidery course at the Decorative Art Museum, and I enrolled!
My friends brought me a fabulous historic Belgorod region wedding dress, and to complete the look I needed an embroidered headdress, Soroka style. I could not afford to order one, so I tried to make one myself, using an old photograph as an inspiration.
With gold embroidery, I can roll back centuries and connect with the rich history of Russia. I really enjoy these explorations. I create replicas of historical headwear from different Russian regions, from Moscow to Arkhangelsk to Belgorod. The immense diversity is very inspiring.
It is beautiful but hard work. I work for three hours a day, rarely more, since this craft demands such concentration, painstaking precision and manual effort. Reviving a long-lost tradition is like filling a huge void, making something that once flourished blossom once again. It feels fantastic.
