Nodir Rasulov

Dili Nafis

Gold thread embroiderer

©Andrey Arakelyan

A gloriously timeless craft

Nodir manufactures golden threads for his embroideries himself
He uses ancient techniques still popular with his customers
His patterns are thoroughly researched and given modern touches

Gold thread embroidery is an ancient craft and Bukhara has historically been its centre. Nodir Rasulov started learning his craft in early childhood. He was born into a family of artisans: his father was a professional woodcarver and his mother and sisters wove carpets and rugs. After trying his hand at various crafts, Nodir realised that he wanted to dedicate himself to gold thread embroidery. Today he creates a variety of pieces, from women's and men's clothes to household items, such as pillowcases and curtains. He constantly researches traditional patterns both in museum archives and academic books, travelling around the country and studying local differences. He then combines them with contemporary designs, keeping his work relevant for the 21st century.

Interview

©Andrey Arakelyan

©Andrey Arakelyan

How do you begin working on new commissions?: First of all, I develop the right patterns. After that I choose the most suitable fabric for the item, and then I start preparing the golden threads. I try to get all the materials locally, but sometimes I have to source them abroad.
Do you introduce new technologies into your work?: I mainly use traditional techniques and historical patterns as they appeal to my international clients. They appreciate the significance of cultural heritage. For me it is also an opportunity to reflect various regional schools and keep them alive.
What is the most challenging part of your work?: The main challenge is finding the materials, since golden threads cost a lot of money. We now make them ourselves from raw materials. It raises the cost of the finished product and makes it difficult to find buyers. But I am not willing to compromise on the quality.
How do you decide on the patterns and ornaments?: I visit a lot of museums and study archival drawings. Every day I spend time creating sketches for upcoming work. Very often I return to my childhood memories, drawing inspiration from them; and sometimes I even dream about patterns. The moment I wake up I put them down on paper.

Nodir Rasulov is a master artisan: he began his career in 1988 and he started teaching in 1992