Moments of transformation
- Susanna worked for master silversmith Adi Toch
- She rarely polishes her pieces, preferring an 'earthy' feel
- As well as metal, she uses a lot of silk
Susanna Gogarty expresses herself in a medium and with metaphors that make sense to her. Her pieces expand on the Victorian tradition of mourning brooches, taking this tradition and altering elements of it to convey another idea. After studying jewellery and silversmithing at London Metropolitan University, she assisted one of her masters, silversmith Adi Toch, before joining the studio Made by Ore. Inspired by London’s rich artisanal heritage and museums, Susanna claims to be unaware of how her thoughts, found objects and drawings come together to make designs. The shapes are drawn from nature’s moments of transformation representing protection, defence, and secrets hidden away, but also smothering.
Interview
- Why did you choose metalwork?
- I initially focused on art and design, with an interest in 3D art and sculpture, designing sculptures around the body. After researching jewellery makers, I realised the craft was more experimental and intriguing than I’d believed. Art jewellery felt like a stepping stone from sculpture and 3D art.
- Do you master any specific techniques?
- I have spent a lot of time making and designing brooch backs. I’m rarely content to stay within one discipline and end up with specific skills connected only by my work. Besides jewellery techniques I have learned to make collapsing folded paper forms which mould fabric into pleated, complex forms.
- Is craftsmanship under threat?
- I do wonder what the future holds. There seems to be a tendency to label creative practices as non-essential. But creatives have an opportunity and a duty to comment on the changes that are happening in society. I hope people recognise the value of that and continue to show interest.
- What might people be surprised to know about your craft?
- People tend not to know what finishing is, or how important it is. Removing scratches, marks and discolouration from the metal and applying an even texture can take longer than making the piece itself. Finishing brings the work to a professional standard and helps the piece tell a story.
Susanna Gogarty is a rising star: she began her career in 2017
Where
Susanna Gogarty
