Mabel Sanz

Milliner

©Pablo Paniagua

Finding joy in hats

Mabel's inspiration comes from her clients and their joy
Quality, for her, means to create something that seems unstudied
She studied philosophy while learning her craft

Silky, textured and coloured fabrics have been Mabel Sanz's passion since she was a child. She also loved sewing, and so she decided to study fashion and design in Madrid. However school disappointed her and she left, deciding to learn by herself. Hats came as a kind of revelation. “I realised I wanted to devote as much time as possible to hats. It’s something different from designing clothes. It is a very special kind of creation,” she says. She began to work with prestigious Spanish designers including Jesús del Pozo, Devota y Lomba, David Delfín, Elio Berhanyer and Alma Aguilar, who were fascinated by her elegance and her singular technique.

Interview

©Pablo Paniagua

©Pablo Paniagua

In what sense is your approach unique?: I use my hands as a support to iron materials instead of hat blocks. It makes me feel free in my creation process. The other thing is my flowers. I decided to handcraft them myself. They are actually like pearls. They became my personal signature, unique and exclusive.
Do you think your work is valued enough?: No, I don’t. There is a lot of low cost competition in my field. But a handcrafted haute couture hat is like an investment, like a piece of art. I don't follow any trends, just my own fantasies. It gives me profound happiness. I can’t see it as just a business.
What's your relationship like with your clients?: To discover what the client is seeking takes a long time when you make a hat. You need a long process, not to hurry. It’s difficult to prepare materials and colours. You need concentration and accuracy. I am very intuitive. I need time. Everything is made to measure in my workshop.
In what sense can a hat maker innovate?: I'm not innovative. I don’t like technology, I am a craftswoman. All my pieces are timeless and depend on sizing, wires, steam and ironing. Then I prepare the dye in hot water or in alcohol. I make my hats from one piece. Innovation for me is perfection.

Mabel Sanz is a master artisan: she began her career in 1991 and she started teaching in 2002