





Maura Leoni
Tailor
Reggio Emilia, Italy
Recommended by Fondazione Cologni Dei Mestieri D'Arte
Bridging vision and reality in high fashion
- Maura is a pattern maker, an interpretative craft at the heart of fashion design
- She has worked with renowned names across the industry over several decades
- Today, her commitment is to develop the next generation through the training programme at Max Mara Group
Few can boast a multi-decade career at the highest levels like Maura Leoni, a renowned pattern maker, appointed Master of Arts and Crafts by the Fondazione Cologni dei Mestieri d'Arte. Her path is rooted in a talent that emerged during her studies in Reggio Emilia, where she won an award early on, that sparked her to train in top-level fashion maisons. In April 1986, Maura opened her own studio. "Under the mentorship of Giorgio Armani, I consolidated my professional ethic of absolute excellence," she shares. Over the decades, Maura's expertise has been sought by global icons: Dior, Schiaparelli, Venturi, Barocco, Ferrè, Donna Karan, Epoca, Antonio Marras and Yossi Cohen for Les Copains. In more recent years, she has focused on collaborations with Max Mara Group, creating foundational patterns and training the next generation at their academy.
Discover her work
INTERVIEW
Initially, my dream was to become an architect, but a teacher encouraged me to attend a professional pattern-making studio. I still remember when the owner, Ms. Giovanna, would point out defects in a paper mock-up that seemed perfect to me. After high school and an initial apprenticeship at a large outerwear company, I won a competition to join Armani. Those were four intense years, working exclusively for him, a true school of life and discipline.
The pattern maker acts as a bridge between the designer's visionand the final creation: the designer thinks about the 'what', while the pattern maker thinks about the 'how'. It is a long process to learn the craft, requiring a solid foundation in fashion history and culture, otherwise, it is impossible to interpret the stylist’s vision. My work is not just a translation from 2D to 3D, but a true interpretation of the design, to ensure the garment's replicability and fit across all sizes. The pattern making department is the heart of any fashion house.
Architecture, observation, travelling, art exhibitions... I was fortunate enough to travel the world, also with my beloved husband, who worked in textiles. Together, we searched for rare looms and materials across every continent. Understanding history of art is fundamental to my practice. I think of Balenciaga’s drapery, which looks like it came straight out of a Renaissance painting. The pattern maker must possess the cultural background and visual language necessary to engage in a dialogue with designers and interpret their vision.
I have a passion for it that never fades. I enjoy creating new volumes and seeing them take shape on the mannequin. It is like creating a sculpture. I love the profound dialogue with the designers, a relationship built on providing creative feedback without ever overshadowing their vision. I had the opportunity to work with giants like Giorgio Armani. I also love teaching: passing on the passion and the tools of this craft to young people means contributing to the growth of an entire creative industry.
Maura Leoni
Tailor
Reggio Emilia, Italy
Recommended by Fondazione Cologni Dei Mestieri D'Arte
AVAILABILITY
By appointment only
LANGUAGES
Italian, French, English
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