Mariko Sumioka

Jewellery maker | Tokyo, Japan

The delicate imprints of architectural elements

Mariko's interest in jewellery began in childhood
She studied at Edinburgh College of Art
She uses collages as a way to expand her imagination during the design phase

After learning the basics of design and jewellery making in Tokyo, Mariko Sumioka further developed her skills as a professional jewellery maker at Edinburgh College of Art. Graduating with honours, her success as an emerging talent at the New Designers exhibition led her to focus her activities around Europe, the UK, and the USA. Mariko draws inspiration from architectural elements and structures, such as the view of houses along a hillside or the overlapping tiles on rooftops. She uses photos of these elements to create moodboard collages, which is her way of exploring and expanding her imagination when designing new pieces. Currently based in Tokyo, she creates jewellery that combines traditional metalworking techniques with innovative designs, inspired by her collages.

Interview

©Yusuke Otomo

What drew you to jewellery making?: When I was little, I lived in Brazil for about four years. There, many of my friends wore shiny piercings and necklaces, which is not as common in Japan. I loved seeing this jewellery, and I had an image of myself sitting and making my own at the bench.
What is your creative process and why?: In Japan, I feel that working methods are very focused on technique and materials. However, during college, I learned to centre my work around elements or themes that I am “obsessed” with and to explore the underlying reasons behind my creations.
What detail of your work surprises people?: In metalwork, texture can be applied by annealing the metal and adding pressure on it with a textured material. When the metal is annealed, it can transfer even the subtlest textures, like that of the surface of Japanese washi paper.
What is your advice for younger people?: Jewellery making is a small field. It is important to explore other types of crafts and larger-scale objects. I would recommend broadening your perspective and learning about various crafts, not just jewellery, to compare techniques and find inspiration.

Mariko Sumioka is a master artisan: she began her career in 2011 and she started teaching in 2016