Koichi & Yoshinobu Moriyama

Textile dyer | Yame District Hirokawa, Japan

Upholding vibrant indigo weaves

Koichi and Yoshinobu run the oldest workshop in Kurume weaving technique, open since 1872
Their father earned the title of Living National Treasure in 1959 for introducing an innovative weave
Kurume weaving is known for being hand-tied, indigo-dyed and handwoven

Fourth generation brothers, Koichi and Yoshinobu Moriyama work alongside their father, Torao from the third generation. Together they aim to preserve Kurume weaving and push its 200-year-old legacy forward, supporting each other's initiatives along the way. Their workshop, Aimoriyama, is over 160 years old and is the oldest Kurume Kasuri workshop in Fukuoka Prefecture near Kurume City. Indigo ikat weaving exclusively uses cotton. The story of this craft began with a young female weaver called Inoue Den who made clothing for the working classes. In 1957, ikat weaving was designated a National Intangible Cultural Property. Aimoriyama, a rare fully manual atelier, is renowned for its exquisite patterns. Along the generations, the Moriyama artisans created the onnuki technique, which is a tight weave innovation by Torao that surpasses traditional kukuri (knotting) for exceptional detail.

Interview

©Aimoriyama

What made you decide to take over the family atelier?: Yoshinobu: My brother Koichi's path was set to inherit the studio. I studied food safety in college and worked for a manufacturer, but always felt a pull towards the family business. Eventually, Koichi and I discussed the idea of working together to see where it led.
What was the first piece you made together?: Yoshinobu: It was a collaborative lantern with Yame Chochin made with washi and Kurume cotton. We used the weave as the lampshade so when the lantern was lit, the light shone through the white motifs, showcasing the intricate woven and custom made patterns.
Could you share a particular anecdote about your craft?: Yoshinobu: One day, mindlessly adjusting the length of a bar of yarn, I watched the thread twist and tangle. My father stopped me by saying "Careless work in the beginning can unravel the entire work." This adage is a constant reminder that quality comes from attention at every step.
Do you have any tips for aspiring artisans?: Koichi and Yoshinobu: We are still learning ourselves! We seek to proactively explore rather than be instructed. Instead of shortcuts, we find inspiration in other fields and learn from them. Studying architecture and cooking are some examples that keep our creativity fresh.

Koichi & Yoshinobu Moriyama are rising stars: they began their career in 2016