Lucia Pascale

Textile dyer

Painting with plants

Lucia constantly tests new textile dyeing alchemies
Her pieces are inspired by nature and an ecological mindset
She collects leaves from around the world to use on her fabrics

Lucia Pascale produces unique fabrics with natural materials, eco-printing techniques and non-polluting dyeing processes from plants, roots and flowers. After a 30-year long career as a fashion designer, Lucia decided to set up her own atelier to work in harmony with nature. Each of her garments is natural, handmade and unique. "Even when a client asks me to create a kimono or scarf with specific colours or features, the piece will still be a surprise. Neither of us will know what the final result will look like," Lucia says. "I think of it as bringing a child into the world. The colour of their eyes will always be a surprise, no matter how well you know the ancestry," she explains.

Interview

What are the basic ingredients of your fabrics?: I start with a natural white fabric from leftover factory stocks and old trousseaux. I use leaves that I collect from woods and parks, or dried leaves from friends around the world. I especially like those dried in books as souvenirs. I also use food waste, such as vegetable scraps and coffee.
How do you combine design and creativity?: I mainly have two approaches. I either print a few metres of fabric freely, guided by emotion, and use the fabric later. Or, I cut the garment pattern on the fabric first and then design the print accordingly.
How long does it take you to create eco-printed fabrics?: It takes days because every step takes a long time to complete. Baking alone takes two hours, and the fabric must also cool overnight. That is why I work on several projects at the same time.
Is research important to your work?: Eco-printing has grown popular, but when I began, it was still experimental. Exploration is vital – I am currently testing smarter firing methods, such as microwave firing for leather printing. I am also studying how sea water affects etching, fabric preparation and colour toning.

Lucia Pascale is an expert artisan: she began her career in 1999