Ayres Gonçalo

Tailor

From his grandfather’s workshop to Savile Row

Ayres was trained as a child by his grandfather
He mastered his technique in Savile Row
A single jacket can take up to 70 hours to be made

At the impressive age of seven, Ayres made his first bespoke piece, a denim waistcoat. As an even younger child, whenever he went to his grandparent’s atelier after school, his grandfather Ayres Carneiro da Silva – who was a first generation tailor who had learnt the art of tailoring in Italy – taught him. His passion for the craft led him to study at a prestigious tailoring academy in Spain, before realising his big dream of trying his hand at Savile Row, where he was successfully accepted into training with legendary tailor Andrés Gomez – the latter only taught four trainees, one of whom was Alexander McQueen. While at Savile Row, Ayres made suits for royalty and celebrities, before leaving for professional adventures in Hong Kong and New York. Now, Ayres is back at his family roots in Oporto, where he welcomes his own clients by appointment.

Interview

How would you define what you do?: I would describe it as a feeling that comes from inside and becomes an art, I feel like I am making art. Tailoring is not quite ordinary these days. You have to be a very good artist to make a good tailoring piece. It’s something that comes from within.
Did you learn from a master?: I started by watching my grandfather in his workshop as a child, he taught me all about symmetry and cutting. Then I went to a tailoring school in Madrid before getting an apprenticeship with Andreas Gomez at Gieves & Hawkes, legendary tailors in Savile Row.
Can you tell us a memorable moment in your professional life?: I had the opportunity to work for high profile clients while on Savile Row, including actors and artists such as Robbie Williams and even His Majesty King Charles III.
Can you describe something about your work that people don’t normally know?: How many stiches a jacket needs! Also, the amount of time it takes, usually about 60 to 70 hours of sewing by hand. To learn the art of tailoring one needs to be patient because it takes four to five years to learn the craft properly, but a lifetime to master it.

Ayres Gonçalo is a master artisan: he began his career in 1997 and he started teaching in 2010