Ayres Gonçalo
Tailor
Porto, Portugal
Recommended by Creative Academy
From his grandfather’s workshop to Savile Row
- Ayres was trained as a child by his grandfather
- He mastered his technique in Savile Row
- A single jacket can take up to 70 hours to be made
At the impressive age of seven, Ayres made his first bespoke piece, a denim waistcoat. As an even younger child, whenever he went to his grandparent’s atelier after school, his grandfather Ayres Carneiro da Silva – who was a first generation tailor who had learnt the art of tailoring in Italy – taught him. His passion for the craft led him to study at a prestigious tailoring academy in Spain, before realising his big dream of trying his hand at Savile Row, where he was successfully accepted into training with legendary tailor Andrés Gomez – the latter only taught four trainees, one of whom was Alexander McQueen. While at Savile Row, Ayres made suits for royalty and celebrities, before leaving for professional adventures in Hong Kong and New York. Now, Ayres is back at his family roots in Oporto, where he welcomes his own clients by appointment.
INTERVIEW
I would describe it as a feeling that comes from inside and becomes an art, I feel like I am making art. Tailoring is not quite ordinary these days. You have to be a very good artist to make a good tailoring piece. It’s something that comes from within.
I started by watching my grandfather in his workshop as a child, he taught me all about symmetry and cutting. Then I went to a tailoring school in Madrid before getting an apprenticeship with Andreas Gomez at Gieves & Hawkes, legendary tailors in Savile Row.
I had the opportunity to work for high profile clients while on Savile Row, including actors and artists such as Robbie Williams and even His Majesty King Charles III.
How many stiches a jacket needs! Also, the amount of time it takes, usually about 60 to 70 hours of sewing by hand. To learn the art of tailoring one needs to be patient because it takes four to five years to learn the craft properly, but a lifetime to master it.
