Bernhard Niedersüß

The architect of tailoring

• Bernhard was trained by his father, owner of Knize
• He continues the 19th century brand C.M. Frank
• His company can look back on 180 years of tradition

Bernhard grew up in the Niedersüß family, which owns Vienna’s most famous workshop for bespoke tailoring, Knize. So this craft and its distinguished customers were always part of his life. He trained as a master tailor with his father Rudolf, and in fashion design with Helmut Lang. In 2007 he opened his own workshop in Vienna and also took over the business of C.M. Frank, purveyor to the Imperial Court of Vienna and many other royals. Bernhard compares his profession to the work of an architect: the development and design of a person's wardrobe has both a practical and an artistic function. Starting with an analysis of the client’s existing clothing, Bernhard slowly develops a style concept that reveals the individual personality of its owner.

Interview

©Oliver Jiszda

©Oliver Jiszda

Do you remember the first product you made on your own?

Of course, it was a double-breasted tweed coat with a lining in mink. The client who ordered it more than a decade ago still wears it with pleasure even now. That’s the secret of well thought out, carefully designed and perfectly made pieces of craftsmanship: they satisfy for years or even longer.

Does the once world-famous Viennese style of menswear still exist?

By the end of the 19th century Viennese tailoring had the same importance as London's Savile Row. In my workshop, more a living room than a shop, you can still breathe in the atmosphere of elegance and discretion and the sense of obligation to retain centuries-old elements of craftsmanship and style.

How does the tailoring process start?

Clients normally come to me by appointment, they give me their time and rightly expect my full attention. The first meeting usually takes an hour – often the customer brings one of his favourite suits and on this basis we discuss the design of the new one and the desired individual attributes.

Do clients ever ask for something outrageous?

Normally, our style is conservative and classic. But once a rich Russian client requested a golden suit, golden like the sun. My first reaction was to say no. But then I found an ochre cashmere fabric out of which I tailored a flamboyant suit with a black collar. I must admit, it looked surprisingly stylish…

Bernhard Niedersüß is a master artisan: he began his career in 1992 and he started teaching in 2004

Works

©Oliver Jiszda

©Oliver Jiszda

©Oliver Jiszda

©Oliver Jiszda

©Oliver Jiszda

Where