Marleen Hengeveld

Alchemist of gold

• Goldsmithing runs in Marleen's family
• Romantic minimalism is the setting for her jewellery
• She believes a diamond brings more than just monetary gain

Marleen Hengeveld’s vocation as a goldsmith is a family tradition. Her mother was a goldsmith before her and worked on jewellery as a hobby. Her grandfather, who used to be the director of what was then a technical college in Amsterdam, introduced goldsmithing to the curriculum for the first time. In her final year of high school, instead of studying for exams, Marleen spent her time making bracelets from beads or sketching. It was clear where her talents lay. Not knowing which direction to take, she took a year out attending an Arts and Crafts college. Following in her mother’s footsteps she learned her trade at the Vocational College for Goldsmiths, eventually specialising in jewellery during a History of Art degree. Her jewels are characterised by fine filigree work and intricate detailing.

Interview

©AMMA Jewelery

©AMMA Jewelery

How would you define what you do?

Romantic minimalism is a term I like to use. I love finely ornamented details, though never too ostentatious and mostly in a symmetrical minimalist frame, without too many colour contrasts.

What does well made mean to you?

When something that is supposed to be straight is straight and round is round. When everything works technically as it should, when soldering seams are not visible, when the colours of the used materials complement each other, and when it is worth preserving.

What is a memorable moment from your professional life?

I took a gamble making a large investment in a diamond for a filigree ring I was very keen to make. Selling my masterpiece a year later was a big moment, it gave me the appreciation and trust I needed to continue on this path.

What advice would you give to aspiring jewellery makers?

Go to a good technical school, but after that don't be in a hurry to start your own business with your own designs. Learn as much as you can by doing a variety of internships or working for different companies. I wish I had done that more myself, as I was not focused on a career in goldsmithing per se.

Marleen Hengeveld is a master artisan: she began her career in 2003 and she started teaching in 2003

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Works

©Erwin Maes Photography

©Erwin Maes Photography

©Erwin Maes Photography

©Erwin Maes Photography

©Erwin Maes Photography

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