The revival of vintage eyeglasses
- Luca is an optician turned eyewear maker
- His designs are inspired by vintage frames
- He developed a project that allows opticians to create their own eyewear
Luca Mariotti works with a wide range of materials, such as gold, wool, Indian buffalo horn and cellulose acetate to create eyewear that steps out of the industry norms. Since he began his career as an optician in 1983, Luca has witnessed the steady decline of artisanal eyewear. In 2017, inspired by his model aircraft building hobby, Luca launched the Eyeframe Project which aims to give opticians the tools to create their own eyewear collections in their shops. In 2023, he launched a new brand called Adessentiam, which means 'towards the essence' in Latin. The ambition of this line is to mix mechanical precision with design inspired by aeronautics.
INTERVIEW
My process starts with inspiration, which I sometimes find in an old pair of glasses from a market stall. Then I sketch by hand, test ideas and select the materials and colours. I use digital tools to design the frame, and finally assemble everything together manually. It usually takes one to two weeks.
The finishing process is definitely difficult. Programming the pantograph to cut materials is also demanding. It requires a great deal of imagination. I have to visualise the final shape before anything is even cut.
All of them, and at the same time none of them. I am never fully satisfied with my pieces, but I end up appreciating each one for different reasons. I am a perfectionist by nature and I aim higher with every new creation.
I see a bright future, even though few people seem to be interested in making artisanal eyewear as a profession at the moment. I believe in investing in one's self – everyone should work for their own growth.
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