Deirdre Hawken

Milliner

©Julian Calder

©Deirdre Hawken

Sophisticated irony

Deirdre creates surprising couture headpieces
She was trained as a costume designer
Her millinery is elegant and playful

Trained as a costume and set designer for theatre and cinema, precociously multitalented Deirdre Hawken is one of the most original and internationally acclaimed milliners. Using traditional methods, in her London studio she designs and handcrafts unique headpieces, with a keen eye and a loving care for detail – she also creates jewellery. Deirdre’s works are exhibited in prestigious museums from Japan to USA. Her couture millinery is at the same time sophisticated and ironic. “Millinery is an underrated art form. My work in theatre taught me that research is extremely important: I spend hours exploring various sources – from Modern Cuisine, which is visually stunning, to botany.” Lively and playful, her approach always leads to surprising results.

Interview

©Peter Clark images

©Deirdre Hawken

How did you become a milliner?: When I was about eight I was given a collection of pottery animals: they were sent in little round boxes which looked like miniature hat boxes. I threw out the animals and made tiny hats to fit in the boxes. Then I trained as a costume and set designer at the Central St Martins.
Did you learn from a master?: I met three masters: the three-time Oscar-winning costume designer Anthony Powell (he taught me to make hats), Stephen Jones and – after winning a QEST Scholarship – I could study millinery with Rose Cory, the Queen Mother's milliner. She was the most inspiring teacher.
Where do you find inspiration?: Elegance and wit are the main criteria. As a former theatre costume designer, I’ve always been fascinated by period dress. My headpieces have often been influenced by surrealism, especially by Elsa Schiaparelli. And I find endless inspiration from studying food and plant imagery.
Which is the most memorable moment in your career?: I’ve been so privileged to have works included in the permanent collections of the V&A Museum, the Met, the Kyoto Costume Institute and in great exhibitions, but I think my most proud moment was attending the event for British Design and Designers at Buckingham Palace in 2004.

Deirdre Hawken is a master artisan: she began her career in 1998 and she started teaching in 2002