Detlev Diehm

Tailor

©Jörg Fokuhl

©Ana Santl

©Jörg Fokuhl

Discreet flamboyance

Detlev handcrafts bespoke suits
Every piece is created with the client
He loves the metamorphosis of fabric

Initially textiles was only intended to serve as a prologue for studies in design, however Detlev Diehm was immediately intrigued by the possibilities he found and decided to continue this path. During an apprenticeship and years as a journeyman at the Bavarian state opera house he gained the knowledge and skills to further materialize his ideas to finally reach the rank of a master tailor. Studies at the Domus Academy in Milan and two years as an assistant to Quirino Conti followed. In the decades to come, Detlev continued to develop his unique aesthetic language across different positions with well-known luxury brands, culminating in the establishment of Diehm Bespoke in 2016. An aesthetic language that can be described as discreet flamboyance.

Interview

©Daniel Kraus

©Jörg Fokuhl

What is it about your craft that fascinates you?: It is the metamorphosis of the materials from two-dimensional layers into a three-dimensional cast of its wearer. It's also the exchange with the client on a very personal and discreet level.
Is there a perfect suit?: Yes, but it is always in the eye of the beholder. As a foundation for my work I follow a more universal understanding of perfection that aims at making the client feel the best version of himself in almost every situation.
Are your creations uplifting?: In a way. To me that is just the intriguing effect of well made clothes. They give the wearer a special feeling because of the fabric and the way they fit.
How do tradition and innovation relate in your work?: The craft is traditional, the spirit is contemporary. Everything is made by means of the art form, but the aim is to reflect today’s world. I like to incorporate unusual materials, most recently Washi (paper) jersey from Japan.

Detlev Diehm is a master artisan: he began his career in 2015 and he started teaching in 2016