Kyoji Tamiya

TAMIYA RADEN

Weaver

©Tamiya raden

Weaving the Sea

A combination of traditional techniques creates the unique appearance of Kyoji’s textiles
His prefecture has produced silk for over 1,300 years
His textiles have appeared in fashion shows overseas

Based in the city of Tango in northern Kyoto Prefecture, the area with the highest production of silk fabric in Japan, Kyoji Tamiya specialises in "Raden-ori" – or seashell weaving. This method was first developed by his father, Katsuichiro, who founded the studio in 1977. Inspired by the mother-of-pearl inlays used to decorate lacquerware, Katsuichiro figured out how to incorporate thinly-shaved abalone shells into textiles using the “hikibaku” weaving technique, which traditionally uses gold or silver leaf pasted onto thin strips of washi paper. Captivated by the iridescent qualities of seashells, Kyoji pursues new forms of expression by applying pigments and incorporating new materials, such as wood, metal and leather.

Interview

©Tamiya raden

©Tamiya raden

What is your specialist skill?: First, we carve the seashells to about a 0.1 to 0.2 mm thickness and coat them with a special resin to prevent cracking. Next, we paste them onto washi paper to create patterns before cutting the paper into thin strips and weaving them together with silk fibres.
How do you express tradition and innovation in your work?: While honouring the unique essence of traditional techniques, I aim to create a new sense of value that will withstand the test of time. I appreciate the challenge of experimenting with new and existing materials, innovating with weaves and threads – and combining them all in original ways.
Can you share a memorable moment from your professional life?: It was always my dream to create something befitting of the Imperial Family. Through some miraculous coincidence, I ended up making an obi belt that caught the eye of the Empress. Another favourite memory is when an elderly woman stood transfixed for half an hour admiring an obi I had made for an exhibition.
What message would you like to send to the world?: The Tango region is home to a beautiful, unspoiled landscape and a thriving historic textile culture. An increasing amount of innovation is happening due to connections with a world that craves textiles. It is vital that people feel the charm and protect the diversity of this abundant land.

Kyoji Tamiya is an expert artisan: he began his career in 1995