Julien Vermeulen

The art of feathers

• Julien is one of only 12 plummasiers in France
• He creates wall pieces, sculptures and installations from feathers
• He won the Prix Liliane Bettencourt pour l'intelligence de la main in 2018

From his workshop in Paris, Julien Vermeulen explains the meticulous procedure of creating art from a feather. “The first step is to pass them through a steamer to smooth wrinkles and restore volume. Then each feather is mounted onto its support, one by one, using knots with metal thread or wire.” He describes the special pair of tweezers with a tiny razor that facilitates this time consuming task. “A large project, like a wall of feathers, for example, takes 1,000 hours.” Julien is passionate about his work, enthusiastically describing the nuances and patterns of light and shadow created as the feathers are laid down “like roof tiles” one after the other in rows.

Interview

©Antoine Lippens

©Antoine Lippens

How did you discover your profession?

I had started designing shoes at Jean-Paul Gaultier when I met a featherworker and was instantly taken with the potential of the craft – the colour, the texture, the possibilities. I was delighted to realise you could do anything with this material.

What was the first feather creation you made?

As a solo artist, a Samurai coat-of-arms, but in feathers. Deep research into Japan and armour went into this large piece. A bird’s plumage is used to communicate or to be frightening, but it grants no protection. I loved playing with this parallel.

Where do your feathers come from?

Traditional plumassiers used exotic bird feathers, but no more. We respect the Washington Convention and all our feathers are remnants of the meat industry, dyed and available in large quantities. These feathers take colour exceptionally well.

How do you express tradition and innovation in your work?

Everyone has seen how feathers are used in fashion, but less in other areas, such as furniture and design objects. By innovating with traditional techniques, we discover the new and unexpected. The only limit to our work is our imagination.

Julien Vermeulen is a master artisan: he began his career in 2013 and he started teaching in 2016

Works

©Antoine Lippens

©Antoine Lippens

©Antoine Lippens

©Antoine Lippens

©Antoine Lippens

Where