A modern custodian of West End bootmaking
- William trained in traditional shoemaking independently
- He sees strength in classic models and high-quality materials
- His shoes and all their components are made in-house, including thread and thread wax
William Efe-Laborde is part of a new generation of London bootmakers who are upholding the West End tradition through independent study, historical insight, and meticulous attention to both aesthetics and comfort. He crafts fully hand-sewn, welted shoes using 19th-century London tools and vintage leathers. Born in rural France, William initially studied anthropology and archaeology at the University of Bristol before discovering his vocation in shoemaking in London. He forged his path through night classes, mentorships with several masters, including Dominic Casey and the late Jason Amesbury, as well as extensive study of historical manuals. Today, William handmakes around 36 bespoke pairs a year, each taking approximately 8 months to complete. "My guiding maxim is 'Nothing but the best', to echo the principles initially laid down by the medieval guilds of the City of London," he says.
Interview
- How would you describe your style?
- I adapt a solid foundation in shoemaking to a modern interpretation, although I am not trying to be groundbreaking. This in itself is part of the challenge because the classic shoe has been made so many times. The loafer, slipper or Oxford shoe are timeless.
- What makes your shoes unique?
- Every detail in the making of shoes is a way to explore bootmaking and its satellite crafts. I aim for a finished boxed pair to have been entirely produced by hand rather than by industrial means. From carving the wooden last to stamping the lining in 22 carat gold, brewing the leather stain, to making the thread and even the wax for the thread, I carry out every stage myself.
- Where do you stand on comfort and aesthetics?
- For me, they are bound together. When I am making a shoe, I am chasing aesthetics, but I need the customer to feel comfort, otherwise the object is devoid of purpose. Blending both is, of course, where the complexity lies, but typically a well-balanced last creates comfort and a beautiful shoe simply reveals that balance.
- Do you have an apprentice?
- Yes, somebody is learning with me. A lot of this craft is transmitted verbally and I feel it almost as a duty to share it. I am self-taught, but I feel humbled that so many craftspeople were willing to share their time with me along the way, with no obligation. Without them, I would not be here. I feel indebted, and wish to pay that back.
William Efe-Laborde is a rising star: he began his career in 2015 and he started teaching in 2022
Where
William Efe-Laborde
