Adornments with Vintage Grandeur
- Mary-Astrid is inspired by her background in interiors and architecture
- She creates contemporary pieces, and restores vintage jewellery and family heirlooms
- She learned the ancient damascening technique from her master Oscar Martin Garrido
Mary-Astrid Collet's path as a designer and jeweller has been defined by a connection between meticulous craftsmanship and unique experiences. "For me, detail has always unfolded within extraordinary settings," she says. Mary-Astrid's early experience in aviation interior design sharpened her eye for details within rare and grandiose spaces. Inspired by vintage object designs, she transitioned to a new career at Saumur Jewellery Institute in France in 2014, and specialised in high jewellery with an art and craft skills diploma in 2016. A year later, she relocated to Toledo in Spain to continue her jewellery making with medieval castles as her backdrop. There, Mary-Astrid discovered damascening and introduced this antique technique to her contemporary designs.
Interview
- Why does vintage design resonate with you?
- Architecture, art and history have been my companions since my childhood in Dakar, when my father and grandfather directed the construction of the capital's Grand Mosque. Later, in Versailles, my architect uncle deepened that bond. By the time I turned 9, I was already visiting flea markets to buy, restore and auction pieces.
- How is your jewellery influenced by your background?
- My career began with a business restoring furniture for high-end hotels, restaurants and aviation. This role allowed me to work with luxury materials and collaborate with other craftspeople to develop lightweight panels for interiors. It was through this experience that I first discovered mother-of-pearl.
- What inspires your work?
- Toledo has been a major source of inspiration for its history, architecture and its ancient craft, damascening. Oscar Martin Garrido has played an important role as my master, as this technique has scarce generational relay and is endangered. The embroidery and traditional dress of neighbouring Lagartera have also inspired one of my recent collections.
- How do your pieces reflect you as a jewellery maker?
- My jewellery embodies my life experiences. It enables me to design with metallurgy, colour and texture while aesthetically mastering materials and solving challenging puzzles. My Effervescence piece, made in collaboration with French glassmaker Adrian Colin, explores light and colour as a tribute to Saumur’s sparkling wines and autumn’s deep reds.
Mary-Astrid Collet is a master artisan: she began her career in 2016 and she started teaching in 2018
Where
Mary-Astrid Collet
