Hiroko Nakano

Canoan

Weaver

©Hiroyuki Yokoyama

A fading tradition kept alive in silk

Hiroko aims to preserve the traditional and endangered Jōshū zaguri weaving technique
She locally sources raw cocoons and uses natural dyes in her works
She is a self-taugh artist who founded her own studio in 2003

Hiroko Nakano specialises in Jōshū zaguri, a traditional Japanese hand-reeling silk technique passed down from the 17th century from the Edo period. While training at a machine-reeling factory, she discovered zaguri and taught herself this technique, which was once deeply rooted in the daily lives of local people. Since founding her studio in 2003 in Gunma Prefecture, Hiroko has produced hand-reeled silk threads for textile artists across Japan. Self-taught in natural dyeing and hand weaving, she combines these techniques to create textiles with rich textures of silk made from locally sourced raw cocoons. "In a region historically dominated by industrial production, I am committed to preserving and evolving this fading tradition. I want to honour its roots while adapting it to today's world," Hiroko says.

Interview

©Hiroyuki Yokoyama

©Hiroyuki Yokoyama

How did you learn Jōshū zaguri?: When I joined Usui Seishi, a machine-reeling silk company, the management and sericulture experts were working to preserve the zaguri technique. During that time, I began exploring zaguri on my own, spending nights and weekends learning through trial and error.
What is an unforgettable moment from your practice?: During the first ten years, when I was focused on selling thread, I faced many difficulties trying to provide silk that met my clients’ needs. Looking back now, I realise those challenges helped shape me into the artisan I am today.
Do you have a favourite part in your weaving process?: Without a doubt, it is reeling silk thread. At first, it was full of frustration and struggle. But now, it has become a meditative time where I focus only on the process, letting the silk guide and fascinate me.
What has been a memorable moment in your journey?: In 2017, I created a three-dimensional work for the LEXUS New Takumi Project, representing Gunma Prefecture as a contemporary artisan. It was a significant moment for me to apply traditional hand-reeling techniques and integrate them with innovation.

Hiroko Nakano is a master artisan: she began her career in 2003 and she started teaching in 2013