Catherine Mannheim

Jewellery maker

©Susanna Fyson

©Ricardo Cerolini

©Juliette Sheath

Uniqueness in the details

Catherine makes silver and gold jewellery with different stones
A family friend inspired her to become a jeweller
She gives as much importance to the back of a piece as she does to its front

Since the 1960s, Catherine Mannheim has been making contemporary jewellery with traditional techniques and a unique combination of materials. "It all started with a family friend, a trained jeweller and silversmith in Germany who would make jewellery for my mother. They were nothing like the pieces I had seen in shops," she recalls. This is when young Catherine's curiosity peaked and she realised that jewellery was a craft of endless possibilities. Her first works were made in silver. She then started using gold and sourcing stones in different colours to complement her designs. Catherine's detailed pieces are built with movement. "What I make is one-of-a-kind. Each piece is special, once it is gone, it will never be available again," she says.

Interview

©Ricardo Cerolini

©Ricardo Cerolini

Did you learn from a master?: After studying for five years in London, I had the great opportunity to study for one year at the Düsseldorf Werkkunstschule with Frederich Becker in the mid-1960s. The work of this influential goldsmith and jeweller has left an indelible mark on my work. His ideas guide and inspire me to this day.
How crucial is the design in a piece of jewellery?: It is essential. Design is not just an idea, it must be executed properly, in a practical way that works on the body. I care about the back of my pieces, I like them to be as well made as the front is. This way, when a piece is turned over, it is still immaculate.
Do details matter in your craft?: Details matter in many ways. For instance, I care about how each section on a necklace joins with the next and how the setting of a stone in a ring fits perfectly in the shank. Even a 1 mm thickness can make all the difference to the look and feel of a piece!
Why is the concept of one-of-a-kind so meaningful for you?: I have always only wanted to make one-of-a-kind jewellery, not create a brand, which is why I have never wanted to make casts to repeat a design. Each piece has a life of its own – it is unique. This is what I would like my legacy to be, jewellery that will carry meaning in the years to come.

Catherine Mannheim is a master artisan: she began her career in 1966 and she started teaching in 1967