Maria Francesca Broggini

aembrosia

Embroiderer

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Small and precious

Maria Francesca creates hair jewels with rare embroidery techniques
Her speciality is goldwork embroidery, traditionally used for royal sacred garments
She combines ancient artisanal knowledge and modern design

Studying fashion design at Brera Academy of Fine Arts in Milan, Maria Francesca Broggini felt that she was on the right track, yet, there was something missing. She was searching for a more artisanal and sustainable approach to fashion. That’s why, while specialising in costume design, she fell in love with embroidery, in particular with some ancient techniques that nowadays are little known and even less taught. The goldwork embroidery, used since the Middle Ages to adorn royal robes and sacred vestments for the high ranks of the church, became her favourite. To master it, Maria Francesca took a course at the prestigious Royal School of Needlework in London. After working in liturgical vestment ateliers for a while, in 2019 she launched Aembrosia, her brand of embroidered hair jewels.

Interview

What is your specialisation?
I create hair accessories - haircombs, headbands and others - for weddings and soirees. They are all handmade with goldwork embroidery and other sophisticated techniques used in haute couture. They are as precious as jewels, but they are also small and affordable. Unlike royal garments, everybody can wear them.
What is goldwork embroidery?
It consists of applying threads and purls gilt in 24 carat gold on a textile surface. A major difference compared to traditional needlework is that the metal threads don’t penetrate the fabric but are laid on it and stitched with cotton. As they are expensive, they have to be used sparingly!
How do you express tradition and innovation in your work?
For the technique, I keep to tradition. My designs are more contemporary. My hair jewels may be romantic and ethereal, but they are not old fashioned, they are my own interpretation of an ancient craft at risk of disappearing.
Is it hard to be a young embroiderer nowadays?
Yes, not only because embroidery seems to be the domain of elderly ladies but there’s also a kind of prejudice against it, like it is a minor craft. But for me, it represents the transformation of my time and hard work into something beautiful.

Maria Francesca Broggini is a rising star: she began her career in 2017 and she started teaching in 2019