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© Andy Gogarty
© Andy Gogarty
© Andy Gogarty
© Andy Gogarty
© Joel Degen

Susanna Gogarty

  • Jewellery maker
  • London, United Kingdom
  • Master Artisan
Susanna Gogarty Jewellery maker
By appointment only
+44 7904196608
© Andy Gogarty

Moments of transformation

  • • Susanna worked for master silversmith Adi Toch
  • • She rarely polishes her pieces, preferring an 'earthy' feel
  • • As well as metal, she uses a lot of silk

Susanna Gogarty expresses herself in a medium and with metaphors that make sense to her. Her pieces expand on the Victorian tradition of mourning brooches, taking this tradition and altering elements of it to convey another idea. After studying jewellery and silversmithing at London Metropolitan University, she assisted one of her masters, silversmith Adi Toch, before joining the studio Made by Ore. Inspired by London’s rich artisanal heritage and museums, Susanna claims to be unaware of how her thoughts, found objects and drawings come together to make designs. The shapes are drawn from nature’s moments of transformation representing protection, defence, and secrets hidden away, but also smothering.

Read the full interview


  • © Joel Degen
  • © Joel Degen
  • © Joel Degen
  • © Joel Degen
  • © Joel Degen
Photo: © Joel Degen

Pressed tightly together inside the silver shell, silk pleats within this sterling silver pendant or brooch peek out from the open front. They are not so exposed to the elements that they will be worn down over time. The back of the piece is open, allowing a different view of the silk, but wearing the piece keeps that view a secret and turns the wearer’s body into another enclosure which traps the silk within.

Height 4.2 cm
Width 3.5 cm
Depth 1.5 cm

Photo: © Joel Degen

With the sterling silver finish as soft as the silk folds cradled within, this brooch or pendant is as delicate as a newborn. The pleating is loose in the translucent silk, creating fragile hollows within the sanctuary of the silver shell. The silver form is more open at the back than it is at the front, therefore wearing this piece also protects it. The hollows of the silk may hold precious secrets and it must be worn to keep them hidden and safe.

Height 3.8 cm
Width 2.8 cm
Depth 1.1 cm

Photo: © Joel Degen

The metal form of this painted brass brooch is closed, and the shelter it provides is also a prison for the silk folds within. The pleated silk is packed in too tightly for comfort, bursting forward and out the only way it can, but still clamped tightly within the metal shell. Wearing the piece will eventually wear the silk down and destroy its lustre, but not wearing it leaves the silk uncomfortably crushed into the unyielding metal.

Height 5.7 cm
Width 3.8 cm
Depth 2 cm

Photo: © Joel Degen

The security this patinated brass brooch provides the silk within it is not constrictive; the piece is open, and though the fabric is firmly held inside the form, the folds are free to move and change over time. The silk is only attached to one point of the metal shell, so it isn't trapped or restricted, just held by the metal. The fabric is not doomed to be worn down to nothing, it may escape the shell.

Height 5.8 cm
Width 3.5 cm
Depth 1.2 cm

Photo: © Joel Degen
Protection Form

The form of this sterling silver brooch or pendant creates a protective shape on the verge of discomfort; the silk folds are pressed tightly against each other and the edges of the silver. If worn, the limits of the protection the metal offers against the world are exposed. The safety becomes a trap for the silk as it is discoloured, worn, and frayed, until there is nothing left but the silver shell.

Height 5.6 cm
Width 3.5 cm
Depth 1.1 cm

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